Embroidery vs screen print vs DTG: the decision matrix
The print method question comes up on almost every company merch order. It looks like a technical detail. In practice it is the decision that most determines how long the branded item looks good, how much it costs to produce, and what artwork it can carry.
Embroidery vs screen print vs DTG: the decision matrix
The print method question comes up on almost every company merch order. It looks like a technical detail. In practice it is the decision that most determines how long the branded item looks good, how much it costs to produce, and what artwork it can carry.
This is the matrix. Garment type on one axis, run size on the other, with the right method at each intersection. No marketing. No upsell.
The three methods, plainly described
Embroidery
Thread stitched directly into the fabric using a digitised file. The result is raised, tactile, and permanent. Embroidery does not crack, does not peel, and does not fade. The stitching outlasts the garment in almost every case.
The constraint is colour and detail. Embroidery handles solid shapes and clean logos well. Gradients, fine line art, and photographic detail do not translate because the medium is thread at a set count, not pixels.
A stitch count of 5,000 to 15,000 is standard for a chest logo. Above 20,000 the piece begins to feel stiff on the fabric and the setup cost increases.
Screen print
A mesh screen is prepared with a stencil for each colour in the artwork. Ink is pushed through the screen directly onto the fabric. Each colour is a separate pass. The ink is heat cured, either by conveyor drier or heat press.
Screen print handles one to six colours well. It produces vibrant, durable colour and the finish lasts 50 or more washes without significant degradation if the ink and curing are correct.
The cost structure has two components: a setup cost (per screen, per colour) that is fixed regardless of run size, and a per unit cost that falls as volume rises. A four-colour screen print at 25 units costs substantially more per unit than the same print at 200 units.
DTG (direct to garment)
A modified inkjet printer deposits water-based ink directly onto the fabric surface. The technology has developed significantly since 2015 and current generation machines (Kornit Atlas and similar) produce print quality that matches or exceeds screen print on suitable fabric.
DTG has no setup cost per colour. The same machine runs a one-colour print and a twelve-colour photographic artwork for approximately the same cost per unit. This makes it the default method for short runs and complex artwork.
The limitation is fabric type. DTG works best on 100 percent cotton at 150gsm or above. Blends above 50 percent polyester do not absorb the ink well, which produces muted colour. Dark garments require a white underbase pretreatment, which adds slightly to cost and can affect feel.
The decision matrix
This table covers the most common order scenarios. "Preferred" means best balance of cost, quality, and durability for the use case. "Acceptable" means it works but is not the obvious first choice. "Avoid" means the method is a poor fit for a reason that matters.
| Scenario | Embroidery | Screen print | DTG |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polo shirt, 1 colour logo, 50+ units | Preferred | Acceptable | Acceptable |
| Hoodie, 1-2 colour logo, 50+ units | Preferred | Acceptable | Acceptable |
| T-shirt, 1-2 colour logo, 100+ units | Acceptable | Preferred | Acceptable |
| T-shirt, multi-colour or photo art | Avoid | Acceptable (4-6 colours) | Preferred |
| Hat / cap, any artwork | Preferred | Avoid | Avoid |
| T-shirt, under 25 units | Avoid | Avoid (setup cost too high) | Preferred |
| Jacket, chest logo | Preferred | Acceptable on outer shell | Avoid |
| Tote bag, canvas, 1-2 colour | Acceptable | Preferred | Acceptable |
By garment type
T-shirts
For a straightforward one or two colour brand mark at 100 or more units, screen print wins on cost and vibrancy. Above three colours or with any photographic element, DTG is the better choice because the per-screen setup cost for screen print becomes a significant line item.
For short run onboarding tees (under 25 units), DTG is the only practical option unless you have a supplier who absorbs screen setup into the per unit price (some do for existing customers, but do not assume it).
Hoodies and sweatshirts
Embroidery is the default for a chest or sleeve logo. The raised texture reads well on fleece and the permanence of the stitch is appropriate for a garment that costs £30 to £50 per unit.
A screen-printed hoodie is not wrong. The finish is flat rather than raised and it suits bold graphic art rather than a refined logo mark.
Hats and caps
Embroidery is effectively the only viable method for hats. The curved brim and the woven or twill construction of most caps does not accept screen print or DTG well, and transfer methods look cheap from across a room.
Outerwear and jackets
Embroidery for the chest or left arm logo. Screen print on a flat panel (like a back print on a softshell) if you have a design that calls for it. Avoid DTG on technical fabric; the pretreatment chemistry is not suited to polyester shells and most jacket fabrics.
Bags and totes
Canvas totes at volume: screen print. The flat surface and cotton construction are ideal for one-colour or two-colour spot art. Embroidery on a tote adds cost without a clear quality benefit unless the brand treatment specifically calls for a textured finish.
Run size as the primary filter
Before you consider the garment or the artwork, run size sets the outer bounds of what is practical.
Under 25 units: DTG only, unless the supplier has a low minimum embroidery setup (some specialists work at 12 units for embroidery but charge a higher per unit rate to cover it).
25 to 100 units: embroidery becomes viable for logo marks; screen print is viable if the design is two colours or fewer; DTG works for any artwork.
100 units and above: all three methods are viable and the choice is primarily about design and garment type.
The question to ask before the brief
One question covers most of the decision: what will this look like after 30 washes?
Embroidery is unchanged. Screen print, if cured correctly with plastisol or water-based ink on cotton, fades minimally and does not peel. DTG on heavyweight cotton (180gsm and above) with proper pretreatment and curing holds well; on lightweight fabric or polyester blends it fades faster.
A supplier who cannot tell you the ink system and curing method they use for screen print is a supplier who cannot answer the 30-wash question. That matters if the item is going to be worn regularly.
For the fabric weight context that informs this decision, the heavyweight vs midweight tees guide covers the GSM breakdown. For how print method affects the overall merch budget, see the swag budget guide.
The Norma product range lists the print method and fabric weight under every garment, with the spec locked per SKU so what you see is what you get at reorder.